Down the Mekong -
Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia & Singapore
Laos
As we continued our trip through the heart of Southeast Asia, we had an adventure filled with vibrant cultures, breathtaking landscapes and moments that will linger in our memories for a lifetime.
Our expedition began with a two-day boat trip down the Mekong River, covering 300 kilometers from Huay Xai to the enchanting city of Luang Prabang. The Mekong, originating in Tibet and winding through several countries, revealed its diverse landscapes, and we marveled at its serene beauty. Accompanied by about 30 fellow travelers, we spent most of our time at the stern, taking in the remote river scenery and sharing stories with a delightful couple from the UK and a warm family from the Netherlands.
We docked for the night in a charming French hotel overlooking the Mekong, a former plantation that added historical charm to our stay. The next morning, after a delightful breakfast, we resumed our journey, ultimately covering 185 miles over the two days. The river, with its swift current, was surprisingly quiet, interrupted only by the occasional speedboat ferrying passengers. Fishing nets dotted the landscape, although we seldom saw anyone tending to them. Teak logs piled along the shore, waiting to be transported downstream, added to the picturesque scenery.
Our boat made stops at fascinating points along the route. One memorable visit was to a remote village off the river, where locals graciously showcased their farming practices and simple way of life with no electricity or running water. Another highlight was the sacred Buddhist site, Pak Ou Caves, housing over 4,000 small Buddha statues left by locals over the centuries.
Lunches on the boat were a culinary treat featuring delicious traditional Laotian meals, including curried fish, chicken, and a bounty of fresh vegetables.
Luang Prabang, Laos
Upon concluding the boat tour in Luang Prabang, a town with French colonial influences, we settled into a beautiful hotel room overlooking the Mekong and one of its tributaries. The distinctly French hotel treated us to the best croissants outside of France for breakfast.
Luang Prabang, the capital of Laos until the 1500s, revealed its rich history. We visited a small royal palace, a gift from the French government, built to greet official visitors arriving by river voyages. Thanksgiving in Luang Prabang was unique, and we toasted our family and friends in a restaurant located on a beautiful lotus pond, savoring roasted duck breast.
A visit to the UXO Center brought a sobering reality. Laos, despite its stunning landscapes, bears the burden of over 80 million unexploded ordnances, a haunting legacy of the Vietnam War. More bombs were dropped on the small country of Laos during that time than all the bombs dropped in WW2. The ongoing efforts to clear these hazards are hampered by insufficient funding and equipment.
We also participated in a moving tradition in Southeast Asian Buddhist culture, witnessing monks and novices on their dawn almsgiving rounds. There were probably hundreds of monks and novices from all over town in a single file procession. It was a humbling experience, connecting us to the local community.
Our final highlight here were the Kuang Si Waterfalls, a multi-tiered waterfall series 20 miles from the city. After hiking the wooded trail, we arrived at the first turquoise pool and proceeded up the path to the main event with a 200 ft drop. Mark hiked to the top of the falls for a great view downstream. There were 2 different wading pools with clear cool water for a hot day.
The trip from Luang Prabang to Vientiane was comfortable and quick in a new high speed train. This line is part of a rail system, paid for by China, that will eventually run all the way south to Phuket in Thailand. For now though, Vientiane is the end of the line. This city, the capital of Laos, has a population of 1 million people. It is less touristy because it is the seat of the national government but it has some interesting architecture because of its french influence, including its own Arc de Triomphe. We were there during the Luang Festival which is a time for worship, celebration and family centered around a large Buddhist shrine in town. People make we missed most of the crowds but apparently it gets pretty crazy at night
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Moving on to Cambodia, we arrived in Phnom Penh during the lively Water Festival, where competitive dragon boat races marked the end of the monsoon season. It’s a 3 day holiday during which there are competitive dragon boat races for 3 days. Supposedly boat racing has been going on in Cambodia for almost 1,000 years! These are very long boats with as many as 50-60 oarsmen paddling at once. Sometimes they were paddling while kneeling, other times they were paddling while standing. Can’t imagine how much coordination that takes! This is the first time the races have been held since Covid so the celebrations were in high gear.
The city’s beautiful palace and grounds offered a glimpse into Cambodia’s regal history.
Chinatown in Phnom Penh was a bustling and lively enclave. The vibrant chaos of markets were a photographer's dream both day and night with their treasure trove of local crafts, exotic spices and the hum of commerce. Street food was varied, aromatic and delicious. Again we found the most amazing dumplings! The juxtaposition of the Khmer and Chinese cultures created a unique fusion that was captivating and harmonious.
Our visit to the Killing Fields near Phnom Penh was emotionally challenging but essential. Today, this site stands a memorial with a Buddhist stupa containing the remains of over 5,000 victims. Unfortunately, many are still buried under the memorial’s uneven ground. Unlike the memorial we visited in Rwanda where we felt some measure of peace for the victims because the site was built to honor the victims, and was never used for murder, to us this memorial held only pain. The remnants of Pol Pot’s regime and the Khmer Rouge’s atrocities serve as a poignant memorial to those who lost their lives lost during the genocide.
Siam Reap, Cambodia
The pinnacle of our journey was the awe-inspiring Angkor Wat in Siem Reap. The temple complex, a testament to ancient Khmer architecture, left us speechless.
It was built as the state temple and eventual mausoleum for the ruling king of the Khmer Empire in the 12th century. The site, about 400 acres within a moat more than 3 mi long and an outer wall 2.2 mi long, was originally built as a hindu temple, but was gradually converted to a buddhist temple in less than 100 years. Siem Reap and Angkor Wat were abandoned when economic activity in Southeast Asia shifted southward toward coastal ports in the 14th century. Over the centuries, the complex decayed from plant overgrowth, fungi, ground movement, and theft but what remains is magnificent!
Made of the ruins of massive stone structures covering more than 500 acres and includes intricate carvings in huge stone blocks. Exploring the intricate carvings and grand structures over three days, sunrise, sunset and in between, we marveled at the resilience of this historical wonder. Some of the temples were so overgrown with trees it seemed like you had stepped in from another planet. Other temples remain in the jungle waiting to be rescued. Angkor Wat was named the 8th wonder of the world. What a way to conclude our visit to Cambodia!
Kuala Lumpure
A one day swing through Kuala Lumpur, Malasia on our way to Singapore afforded us the opportunity to see the Patronas Towers, rising majestically against the cityscape. We ascended to the sky bridge at the 41st floor, suspended between the towers, where panoramic views of Kuala Lumpur unfolded beneath us. At the observation tdeck on the 86th floor, we had a spectacular view of the skyline of this iconic city. In the early 2000s, it was the tallest building in the world and remains the tallest twin skyscraper at 1,483 feet. A couple of quick facts - 88 stories and 32,000 windows! It was a moment of awe, standing amidst the clouds and witnessing the bustling city from such dizzying heights.
Singapore
Our Southeast Asian sojourn ended with a quick stop in Singapore, a city-state that left us captivated with its unique blend of modernity and tradition.We began our Singaporean jaunt with a stroll through the futuristic Gardens by the Bay. The Supertree Grove, a collection of tree-like structures adorned with vertical gardens, was a sight to behold. The Cloud Forest, an enormous greenhouse, is an architectural marvel as well as a botanical delight. We were greeted by a 115 ft waterfall. Then, we were surrounded by several stories of plants from around the world including a variety of ecosystems all miraculously blended together. We wandered through rare orchids, ferns, cactuses and baobab trees. With a visit to the beautiful Singapore Zoo, similar to the San Diego Zoo in some ways, we were treated to a diverse array of wildlife in lush jungle surroundings.
Late in the afternoon, we found ourselves at the top of Marina Bay Sands, sipping on Singapore Slings while marveling at the breathtaking panoramic views of the city. The iconic rooftop provided a spectacular vantage point as the sun set, offering a glittering skyline that beautifully showcased Singapore’s architectural prowess and creativity.
As we conclude our trip, we are filled with gratitude for the diverse experiences in Eastern Europe, Africa, India and Southeast Asia and the warm hospitality we encountered. 4 Continents, over 24,000 miles, and around the world. Next stop San Diego!
Looking forward to reconnecting soon and sharing more tales in person. In the meantime, we wish you all a happy holiday season!
